Worsted weight (Medium, #4) yarn — any color; about 20–40 yds per cone depending on size and Peak chosen
4.50mm (US G/6) crochet hook, or size needed to get a firm, gap-free fabric
Stitch marker (a locking marker or scrap yarn works — these cones are worked in a continuous spiral, not joined rounds)
Tapestry needle for weaving in ends
Polyester fiberfill, if you want the finished cone stuffed and free-standing
Abbreviation
Meaning
MR
Magic Ring
sc
Single crochet
inc
Increase — 2 sc in the same stitch
dec
Decrease — single crochet 2 stitches together (sc2tog)
st(s)
Stitch(es)
rnd
Round
( )
Total stitch count at the end of the round
All five versions share the exact same base and body (Rounds 1–10 below), so you can crochet the bottom of the cone first and only decide which dome you want once you reach the shaping rounds. This makes it easy to compare all five side by side, or to make a matched set.
The Shared Cone Base
This builds a cone body about 36 stitches around at its widest point. Work in a continuous spiral — do not join or turn — and move your stitch marker up one stitch at the start of every round.
Rnd 1: MR, 6 sc into ring. (6)
Rnd 2: inc in each st around. (12)
Rnd 3: *sc 1, inc* around. (18)
Rnd 4: *sc 2, inc* around. (24)
Rnd 5: *sc 3, inc* around. (30)
Rnd 6: *sc 4, inc* around. (36)
Rnds 7–10: sc even around, working straight for 4 rounds to form the body of the cone. (36)
Want a taller cone before the dome starts? Repeat Rnd 7 as many extra times as you like — every repeat adds one more round of straight sides. This is also the point to add fiberfill a little at a time as you work upward, if you're stuffing the cone.
Once you finish Rnd 10 (or your extended body), choose one of the five top shapings below. All five start from the same 36-stitch round.
1.Extremely Peaked — Long Spire Point
Decreases are spread far apart and separated by plain rounds, so the top tapers very gradually into a long, narrow, almost witch-hat-like point.
Rnd 11: *sc 4, dec* around. (30)
Rnd 12: sc even around. (30)
Rnd 13: *sc 3, dec* around. (24)
Rnd 14: sc even around. (24)
Rnd 15: *sc 2, dec* around. (18)
Rnd 16: sc even around. (18)
Rnd 17: *sc 1, dec* around. (12)
Rnd 18: sc even around. (12)
Rnd 19: dec around. (6)
Rnd 20: dec around, then fasten off. (3)
Pull the tail through the remaining stitches and cinch closed for a fine, needle-like tip.
The plain rest-rounds are removed, so the taper happens over fewer rounds — the tip is still somewhat pointed, but noticeably shorter and softer than the Slightly Domed version.
Decreases now happen every round from the start of shaping, with no plain rounds and no single-stitch spacer — this mirrors the increase rounds from the base in reverse, which is the classic technique for a smooth, rounded, ball-like curve (think the top of an acorn or gumdrop).
Rnd 11: dec around. (18)
Rnd 12: dec around. (9)
Rnd 13: *dec, sc 1* around (3 dec, 1 sc left over). (5)
The fastest possible closure: every stitch is either worked or decreased in just two rounds. Because there's almost no taper at all before the closure, the top stays wide and rounded right up until it caps off, giving the fullest, most rounded dome of the set — like a rounded mushroom cap or half-sphere.
Rnd 11: *dec* around. (18)
Rnd 12: *dec* around. (9)
Rnd 13: sc2tog around as far as possible, then fasten off, pulling the tail snug through the last few stitches. (4–5)
Because this dome closes so fast, add the last of your fiberfill just before Rnd 11 — there won't be much opening left to stuff through afterward.
Cut yarn leaving a 6" tail. Thread onto a tapestry needle and weave through the front loops of the remaining stitches, pull tight to close any small opening, and knot off on the inside.
Weave in all ends, running them through a few stitches on the inside of the cone so they're hidden and secure.
If your cone won't stand upright, weight the base lightly with a bit of extra fiberfill or a flat cardboard disc cut to fit inside the opening before closing it off.
To make a matched set showing the full range, work all five bases back to back — since Rounds 1–10 are identical, you can chain the closures one after another without losing your place.
For a larger or smaller cone, simply add or remove increase rounds in the base (Rounds 2–6) before starting the body — just make sure your ending stitch count is divisible by 6 so the shaping rounds above still divide evenly.
This pattern is for personal use only. Please do not sell finished items made from a mass-produced or exact copy of this written pattern without a commercial-use license, and do not reproduce, reprint, or resell this pattern itself in whole or in part.